Traditions and customs in Tehran

1. Taarof

Ritual politeness where offers are made to be refused — including prices. Refuse twice, then accept.

• Tip: A shopkeeper saying it is worthless and refusing payment is taarof. Insist on paying.

2. Persian carpets

A craft of enormous depth; knot count, dye and region all matter and are all misrepresented to visitors.

3. Nowruz

The Persian new year at the spring equinox, with two weeks of visiting and the haft-sin table.

• Best time: Late March

4. Teahouse culture

Chai in glass cups with sugar cubes held between the teeth, in traditional chaikhanehs.

5. Poetry

Hafez and Ferdowsi are quoted in ordinary conversation; poetry is genuinely popular culture here.